Kickbike Manual

General Maintenance

With just a few basic checks you can keep your Kickbike rolling easily and avoid major repairs. If you are not able to master some maintenance task, let the local bike dealer do it for you.

Before Each Ride

Fasten quick release levers, check the brake function, and check tire pressure.

Monthly Maintenance

Clean and lubricate brakes and cables.Monthly maintenance is especially vital in rough weather conditions.

Annual Maintenance

Service in a Kickbike or bicycle shop. Straighten rims, lubricate and adjust bearings, replace brake pads. Attend to any scratches with touch up paint provided.

It is highly recommended that you let a bike shop check your Kickbike so that potential problems having an effect on safety, product life cycle or warranty terms can be identified in time.

Manufacturer’s Warranty

Kickbikes come with a Manufacturer’s parts warranty of 90 Days for all parts excluding tires, brake pads, and brake cables/wires. Off-road use or jumping on the frame voids all warranties. For even very competitive and high mileage use the current frame has proven strong and durable. The Kickbike has been dynamically tested with 120 kg weight on the footboard by a special testing machine simulating rough road use.

Steering System

Before riding your Kickbike, check for your own safety that all bolts in the headset are properly tightened. Neither the stem, handlebar, nor bar ends should move when turned manually.

Handlebar Stem

The adjustment range of the Kickbike Sport Classic is adequate for a wide variety of Kickbikers. The height of riding pose is adjusted by changing the angle of the stem. Open the adjustment bolt under the stem, set the stem to the desired position and tighten the bolt. After this you might have to adjust the brake levers so that you can reach them with your fingers and adjust the bar ends to a comfortable position for you. Note that if the adjustment bolt is tight, then it is difficult to turn the screw on the side of the stem that tightens it to the steerer. Important ! The stem must not be raised higher than the line marked on its side.

Bar Ends

The bar ends attached to the handlebar of Kickbike Sport Classic and Millennium Racer ought to be adjusted so that their angle is a bit above horizontal. You can make the grip narrower by simply moving the attachment point inwards. Grip adjustment is important in order to ensure your shoulders and arms don’t become tired.  Many experienced Kickbikers use a shoulder-wide grip.

Headset

Headset bearings seldom need adjustment. However, they should be maintained properly for full riding comfort.  Adjustment is required if the lock ring is loose (you can tighten this manually) or the headset bearings are:
*too tight (controls don't rotate easily)
*too loose (controls and fork rattle)

First tighten the bearing cup and lock ring as tight as you can without using tools. Then tighten them against each other with 32 mm wrenches. If you are an inexperienced Kickbike mechanic then it is may be easier to let a bike shop do the job for you.

Wheels

Quick Release
Both hubs of your Kickbike are equipped with handy quick-release levers that let you mount and dismount the wheels without any tools. The quick-release system is built around a skewer that penetrates the hub. In one end of the skewer there is an adjustment nut and in the other end the manually operated quick-release lever. When the lever is locked, its convex side is on the outside. When you mount the wheel, open the quick-release lever and tighten the adjustment nut just enough to enable tightening the lever with one or two fingers. Turn the lever as far as it goes so that it does not point outwards. The best position of the levers both at front and at rear is angled downwards and against the fork in order to prevent shoelaces or trousers from catching on it while kicking. After you have set the adjustment nut properly, you can remove the rear wheel by merely turning the quick-release lever.

For security reasons there are small hooks in the front fork tips to prevent the wheel from coming off automatically when the lock lever is opened.

Bearings
If the hub rattles or is too tight, the bearings might be damaged. Open the locking nut of the bearing and adjust the bearing cone so that the axis rotates easily without sidewise movements. Tighten the locking nut by holding the bearing cone. Check once more, that the adjustment was successful.

Rims
In order to keep the rims straight all spokes ought to be tight. If you notice that a spoke is becoming loose, tighten it immediately as loose spokes tend to loosen even more rapidly. A broken spoke must be replaced as soon as possible. To straighten a badly warped rim requires professional skill, so we recommend that you let a bike shop do it for you.

Tires
The most important maintenance guideline for a Kickbike is to keep appropriate pressure in the tires. Soft tires greatly reduce the swift rolling of your Kickbike.  Furthermore, they are more easily punctured and worn out. Soft tyres may even result in rim damage.

The tires tolerate pressure up to 5.5 bar (80 PSI). We recommend that you use at least 4 bar (60 PSI). When you press the tire with your thumb, a correctly filled tire should yield only by a few millimeters.

Replacing the Wheel
The front wheel of your Kickbike is the most common 28-inch bicycle size. You can obtain replacement front wheels directly from Kickbike Worldwide or from any Bike Shop. The rear wheel, however, has been designed specifically for the Kickbike. The hub is exceptionally narrow in order to allow unobstructed movement of the kicking foot. Therefore you can obtain the rear wheel only from a Kickbike dealer.

Brakes

Brake Pads
You should replace used brake pads well before they wear out completely. Otherwise the metallic fasteners will damage the rim. There are a variety of brake pads on the market, so it is better to take an old pad together with its fastening bolts to the shop when purchasing new ones. The correct distance between the brake pads and the rim is 2-3 mm. If the pads are too far apart, then the brake lever gets out of range and the brake power deteriorates drastically. On the other hand, if the pads are too close to the rim, then it becomes difficult to dismount the wheel.

The distance is adjusted by screwing the bolts on the brake or brake lever. If their range is not sufficient, you must perform a coarse adjustment of the brake cable. Loosen first the lock bolt of the brake cable. Thereafter pull the cable tight and simultaneously push the brake pads manually onto the rim and tighten the lock bolt. The brake pads must be centered symmetrically at the same distance from the rim.

The side-pull brakes of the Kickbike are self-centering. In the event that the brake bolt is too tight, you can manually set the brake pads to the right position. If side-pull brakes make a squeaky noise while braking, twist the brake calipers gently so that the anterior ends of the brake pads move slightly closer to the rim. You can twist the shoe arms with ordinary pincers or a wrench.

Brake Cable
In order to ensure easy function and avoid corrosion it is recommended that you lubricate the brake cable now and then with bike oil or ball bearing grease. Particularly in rough weather conditions, the cable running under the footboard is exposed to moisture and dirt. If the brake does not function smoothly, pull the cable out of its housing, clean and lubricate it and remount. If the cable housing gets damaged it has to be replaced together with the cable. Don't pull the rear brake cable out from the frame with the cable housing, because it is difficult to push it back. When you replace the cable housing pull it carefully out from the frame, but leave the cable inside the frame. Mount the new housing along the cable.

Mudguards

Your Kickbike comes with extremely strong plastic mudguards. The rear mudguard should always be mounted as it is quite necessary on wet roads and comes with a rear reflector for safety. However, the frame pipe provides shelter from most splatters coming from the front tyre, so a mudguard at the front is not absolutely necessary.  If you remove it, then you can more easily remove your front wheel and turn the handlebar sideways for easy transportation in the trunk of a car.

Assembly

Your Kickbike is delivered by mail fully functional and inspected. The handlebar stem, front wheel and the basket of Kickbike City Cruiser have been dismounted. Basic tools needed for assembly and maintenance are included.

1. Attach the Controls
Push the stem to its location (see cover) and check that brake cables have not rotated around the handle bar or each another. Tighten the bolt at the upper end of the stem with a 6 mm Allen key. Note that there may be a plastic cover on top of the bolt.

2. Mount the Wheels
Place the wheel on the fork. Turn the adjustment nut on the axis almost tight and close the quick release lever. See section "Wheels" for details.
If the wheel does not fit in its place because the brake pads are too close, then let some air pressure out of the tyre. You can open the V-brakes of Kickbike Sports Classic (model 1999) while mounting the wheel.

3. Fill the Tires
It is essential that you fill both tyres to the specified pressure. See section "TIres" for details.

4. Check
Is the handlebar sturdily mounted? Are the brakes functioning? The brake adjustments may have altered during transportation. See section "Brakes" for details.

Accessories

Basket & Rack
It is often easier to transport small baggage in a basket or a rack than in a backpack. Kickbike City Cruiser comes equipped with a basket. With it you can carry more versatile baggage. On a front rack equipped with pannier bags you can carry light-weight camping gear. When you choose panniers, you should check that they do not obstruct the free movement of the kicking foot. Many commonly available panniers are a bit too large.

Speedometer
A speedometer is the number one accessory for everyone who has even a slightly athletic attitude to Kickbiking. You receive immediate feedback, and, by trying out refinements in your technique as you go, you can soon improve your riding economy significantly. While kicking, your foot might swing close to the front fork. Hence, a speedometer equipped with a cable may be vulnerable. It is best to first attach the sensor to the fork blade and then pull the cable along the inner side of the fork blade and the brake cable onto the handlebar. Then coil the excess cable around the handlebar. You can avoid these problems by using a cordless speedometer.

Reflectors and Lights
Your Kickbike comes with front, rear and spoke reflectors. Check that the spoke reflectors are mounted firmly. You might like to supplement the fixed reflectors by reflective tape strips on your clothing and/or your Kickbike. On dark roads a headlight is legally required and absolutely necessary. The best choice is a battery-powered device that is light-weight, silent and efficient.

Lock
It is easy to carry a Kickbike, so it has to be locked to something sturdy in order to effectively deter a thief. Locking the front rim to the frame does, though, prevent a curious trial and the consequent "borrowing" that has hitherto been the most common cause of disappearing Kickbikes. Always lock the frame, not merely the front wheel. Your Kickbike has an individual serial number located on the rear of the footboard that you can note down and put in a safe location at home. You can also engrave your own safety insignia onto your Kickbike. A good location is in the v-shaped slot below the rear part of the frame. There it does not get scratched nor does it weaken the frame.

Clothing

While Kickbiking you can wear normal outdoor clothing. If you exercise hard enough to induce sweating, then you should select appropriate sportswear. Remember that in long descents the breeze might feel quite chilly. It is worthwhile paying attention to your shoes. A good choice is a running shoe with a low heel and a relatively stiff sole with a good grip. Padded biking gloves absorb unpleasant vibrations when riding on rough surfaces. Avoid loose shoelaces, skirt hems or trouser legs that might end up between the spokes. Last but not least:: always wear a good cycling helmet!

Kicking ABC

Although it is easy to ride a Kickbike, it is worthwhile keeping certain basic guidelines in mind when taking your first kicks. Correct technique saves energy and enables you to achieve your best possible speed.

Take long kicks, let it roll.

On flat terrain long kicks are more efficient than short fast ones. Concentrate on free and easy kicks and keep your weight on the standing foot.

Don't lean on your kicking leg or your hands.

Keep your standing leg straight between kicks.

Changing Legs
In order to prevent kicking from becoming monotonous and your muscles from getting fatigued early, learn to change the kicking leg frequently. Changing leg is the only new thing to learn if you already know how to ride an ordinary bike.

1. Start with standing with your right foot on the footboard.
2. Turn your right foot aside keeping your weight on the heel.
3. Step with the toes of your left foot to the released space.
4. Raise your right foot from the footboard.
5. Turn your whole left foot onto the footboard.

When you are ready to change again, do the same steps the other way around. Practice changing your leg so that you don't have to look at your feet all the time in the traffic. A suitable change frequency is about 5 kicks per foot. A simple guideline is:

Hard effort › more frequent change
Less effort › less frequent change

Relax.  Enjoy Kickbiking.  Don't try to force yourself into a certain style or speed.  You can balance like on an ordinary bike.  The feeling is only a little different, because you don't have a saddle.

Uphill
In spite of some false preconceptions, you can ride your Kickbike nicely also uphill. You need to master the technique, though, in order to take advantage of the light 9 kg weight compared to an ordinary bike.

When the road starts to ascend, the Kickbike tends to slow down noticeably between the kicks. However, don't slow down consciously. Instead, alter your technique.

Increase frequency. Take shorter kicks. Change your pendulum-like kick to a rotating one. When you keep your kicking knee slightly bent you can bring the leg quickly back to the front for a new kick. In the kicking phase, however, try keep your legs straight avoiding excess vertical movement.

If you wish to increase your frequency further, you need to learn the jump-change of the leg. Jump immediately after you have kicked and are bringing your kicking foot to the front. A low, almost inconspicuous jump does not waste too much energy.

If the hill is too steep for your fitness or skill, don't be discouraged. It is extremely easy to move into running or walking. For a beginner this is often the most convenient alternative.

Downhill
When the velocity downhill increases enough, you will soon notice that it's better to stop kicking. It is easiest to stand on the footboard with both feet pointing slightly aside to the same direction.

At the end of the descent let your Kickbike roll while the velocity decreases to your normal kicking speed. A beginner often starts kicking while the speed is still too high and touching the ground only slows the journey.

Always reserve enough room for braking by adjusting your velocity according to visibility. It takes more time to stop in downhill than on flat land.

Kickbike in Traffic
Check your local traffic regulations for any rules about scootering. They vary between different countries and states. Even within one country a law enforcement officer’s interpretation of a Kickbiker’s status in traffic might base on first impression rather than legislation. If in doubt, you’d better use common sense and use the safest alternative. Although a pedestrian by definition, a Kickbike can be taken on the road or bicycle lanes with a helmet.

Stopping and Starting
Stopping and starting is easy with your Kickbike. You can transfer from kicking to walking or vice versa with one step. The fastest way to kick off is to take a couple of running steps and then jump onto the footboard.

Walking your Kickbike
A short and narrow rear makes the Kickbike much easier to walk than a bike. When walking your Kickbike you can hold it on the stem. This leaves your other hand free.

Carrying your Kickbike
You can jump over the edge of a sidewalk, but it is easier to take a few steps carrying your Kickbike and then jump again onto the footboard.

It is convenient to carry your Kickbike in stairs to a suitable safe storage location. Carry your Kickbike holding it on the frame. It is a natural handle.

If you use public transportation with your Kickbike, you might like to own a Kickbike Bag, so that the tyres don't scratch or smear your fellow passengers. Furthermore, with your Kickbike neatly packed there will be no dispute with the conductor whether the Kickbike is a bicycle requiring an additional fee or not.

Parking
You can use the Kickstand to park you Kickbike. Alternatively you can lean it against a wall or lay it on the ground.   It has no easily damaged parts, such as the pedals and gears on an ordinary bicycle.